Hannah Marshall x Rankin - SS11

Marshall and Rankin teamed up again to make a short film for the SS11 Strict Machine collection. The film shows a series of dark images, over lapping and weaving in and out to create a dream like feel. Floating, haunting images and withering bodies are shot to a emotive sound track.

Hannah Marshall x Rankin - SS10

Hannah Marshall's debut catwalk debut at LFW began with a short film shot by Rankin. The film followed the concept of the CCTV age that we live in. Using close ups and clever cuts the film allows the audience to feel a certain degree of entrapment and a lack of privacy. The film compliments the concept and ideals of the Encryption collection perfectly.

SS11 STRICT MACHINE

Strict Machine investigates the privacy of the body and mind and how people control access and exposure of their most intimate inner lives. Incorporated are techniques of restraint from inspirations of minimalist masters; Helmut Lang and Jil Sander. The collection marks the introduction of discreet colours - grey, chalk, mint, white and of course the signature colour - black. As the collection progresses down the catwalk the pieces become intensified, the layers increase, the scale grows and the depth of the panels stretch, in order to disguise and hide the human body as we know it.

Hannah Marshall's moodboard for Strict Machine.

AW10 ARMY OF ME

Sliced, slit and slashed this collection sees Marshall explore with lethally sharp aesthetics and the possibilities and limits of body modifications. Powerful new silhouettes embody the same optical illusions that was created by art director Jean-Paul Gaude in his iconic photos of Grace Jones. The garments allow the female body to be reshaped, resized and resealed. The use of bionic shapes and architecture reflect modern women as powerful urban warriors.

Hannah Marshalls moodboard for Army of me.

SS10 ENCRYPTION

Encryption is inspired by a generations fascination with surveillance culture, body modification and ways that people mark and track their identities. Folded leather creates pointed hips, shoulders and breasts on dresses and jackets. Oversized power dressing also features heavily within the collection, contrasting with tight leather and mesh dresses. The normal monochrome palette is injected with royal blue for a fresh yet still darkly enigmatic collection.

AW09 ARMOUR

This season saw Marshall create garments that when worn, acted as a piece or Armour. The body is encased in steel line panels, protected with angular breast plates, concealed contours and moulded hips. The body armour concept allows the pieces to offer the illusion of strength and lend the wearer a sense of security. A recurring theme of women and power are interlined within this collection. Flashes of flesh create a provocative feel, with the use of slashed mini dresses, low scooped back dresses and corseted leather panels. These elements also create a fetish theme and is also representative of women in the 1980s British punk rock era.

SS09 Power Architect

Power architect sees sharp and powerful silhouettes that have been inspired by the balance, repetition and lines of architecture and dance. The collection is roused by the human form and they way that it moves. Marshall has taken inspiration from the work of architect Santiago Calatrava; whose work usually derives from the study of the human body, and the figure of Parisian Ballet dancer Sylvie Guillem. The LBD continues to make an appearance throughout the collection with amplified volume, loose shapes and body conscious fits. In addition to black - chalky white, flesh nude and aluminum grey are used to compliment the predominantly dark collection.

Logo

Hannah Marshall's logo is straight to the point and minimalist like her designs. And is also in her signature colours of black and white. Underneath her name you will see braille coding. All of Marshall's pieces contain this coding which provides hidden messages in every garment. The concept comes from Marshall's curiosity of developing a connection between communication and clothing.

Jil Sander

German designer Jil Sander became known for her minimalist designs in 1990s. Her most popular designs being tailored pant suits, a slim blouse and a form fitting coat. Jil Sander is one of Marshall's favourite designers and it is clear to see similarities within their work. Sander is often referred to as the 'master of minimalism' which isn't dissimilar to names that Marshall has been called as she also works from minimalist silhouettes. Sander began designing clothes for women that were conquering executive positions in the 1980s, that were self confident and looking for subtlety and elegance in their appearances. The Hannah Marshall women bares the same qualities - power and confidence. They also work from the same minimal colour palette of black, blue, beige, grey and white. It is clear to see that Jil Sander is an inspiration to the work of Hannah Marshall.

Reinventing the LBD

Coco Chanel is responsible for the invention of the little black dress. 1920 saw the use of black being used a medium of fashion rather than a way to symbolize the death of a loved one. A LBD is regarded as a must have within any women's wardrobe due to the fact it suits any style and any size and can be dressed up or down depending on the occasion. Hannah Marshall has been labelled 'The queen of the little black dress' for her reinvention of the classic silhouette. Her dresses have an undeniable gothic chic feel to them whilst remaining feminine and minimalist, a design that can still suit all. By Marshall revamping a timeless piece I feel that it has enabled her to reach a wide audience of women.

Music

"The London music scene is so incredible and I am very happy to be working with exciting and inspiring artists here: Florence and the machine, The XX, Skin and Marina and the diamonds. Music collaborations allow my designs to come to life, whether on stage or in a video. Also as a designer I am intrigued by the digital world. It's exciting to cross over into other disciplines such as music and film."

The artists that Marshall talks about above are new, cutting edge acts with a huge fanbase. Them performing in Hannah Marshall clothes will make them hugely desirable to a wide audience and target different people than she may have before.

Grace Jones

Grace Jones is also a huge inspiration to Marshall's design process. When asked if she could create an outfit for anyone fictional or non fictional, who would it be? She replied "Grace Jones, as there is no one else in the world like her." She has also mentioned that all of the references that she has of the 80s and 90s refer to David Bowie or Grace Jones - Two powerful and business minded people. 

Muse

The image above is from an article in Style magazine where designers were asked to be interviewed and photographed with their muse. Hannah chose Erin O'Connor. When asked why Erin was her muse she replied: 

"Erin embodies everything that I want to convey within my designs. I want to empower women through the cut of fabric, make things sensual and revealing whilst covering up parts of the body. Erin takes on the spirit of the brand; when I'm designing she becomes part of what I think about. Plus Erin's been a great source of advice, i pick her brain all the time. Recently we've been talking a lot about how to be in charge of your realm as a business women."

Power style

Moodboards to represent the powerful elements of Hannah Marshalls work.

Hannah Marshall aims to create clothes that empower women by redefining minimalist silhouettes in to powerful and architectural works of art. Elements of her collections are reminiscent of 80s power dressing due to the oversized garments, and big structured shoulder pads. Marshall also looks at strong and powerful women such as, Grace Jones and Erin O'Connor  for inspiration when creating her collections.

Gothic Style

Moodboards to represent the gothic elements of her work. 

Gothic fashion began to evolve in the early 1980s from the appearance of post punk music artists such as, Peter Murphy of Bauhaus and Sioxusie sioux (Marshall makes many references to them being style icons to her in interviews). The use of makeup within the gothic trend is vital and considered an art form, the 'vampire look' being the most popular. This look is achieved when the face is very pale, combined with black eyeliner and glossy black or red lipstick - the makeup style that Marshall wears and usually styles on her models. The heavy use of black and fabrics such as leather, lace, velvet and silk throughout Marshall's collections add strong gothic themes to work.

Style

Hannah Marshall has a very chic and androgynous style. Her love for all things black and sculpted have allowed her to create work so visionary and powerful. Some have even gone as far to suggest that Marshall is an architect rather than a designer. ' Her signature edgy style always maintains an element of elegance and femininity. Marshall wants her clothes to redefine minimalist silhouettes whilst empowering the modern day woman. Her sharp, edgy and dynamic shaped garments give a sense of empowerment in the best possible way. Hannah Marshall's look is gothic and architectural - with her long black hair, signature red lips, sharp cut fringe and even sharper statement eyebrows. Hannah believes that growing up with a strong mother has influenced her style and work. 

The beginning

Marshall graduated from Colchester school of art and design in 2003 where she received a first in BA fashion design. During her graduate year she was headhunted by NESTA and invited to join their creative pioneer programme; she was the youngest of 21 entrepreneurs. It was here that she received extensive business training - an experience that she recalls as being hugely beneficial to the creation and day to day running of her business. Marshall then went on to set up her own label in 2007. The New Gen scheme that aims to promote new talent sponsored Marshall in her LFW catwalk debut for her SS10 collection - Encryption.

Hannah Marshall.

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'I have realized the great power that clothes really have to transform you, not only in the way that you feel but also the way that you are perceived.. it's not just about dressing for other people, it's about dressing for yourself.'

I chose to look at the work of Hannah Marshall because although she is a new designer, I believe thats she has achieved so much in such a short space of time. Everything that she designs I can only dream about adding to my wardrobe! Plus she is also an Essex girl which makes me want to support her even more!